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Why Is Skin of Color More Sensitive Than Caucasian Skin?

June 6, 2022 by Wendei Leave a Comment

I can’t tell you how many Black, Asian, Hispanic or Indian people I’ve met over the years who don’t wear sunscreen because they think the extra melanin in their skin protects them. Nothing can be further from the truth. While having extra melanin does give you some protection from the sun it doesn’t completely eliminate the risk of skin cancer. About eight years ago I had a client who was very Black, I’m talking Ethiopian Black, so very dark skin. Not only did her father pass away from melanoma, at twelve years old she’d already had melanoma.

Aside from the risk of skin cancer, when doing chemical peels, as an esthetician I need to go low and slow on my darker skin clients. One example is a Jessner peel. There’s an acid in there called resorcinol. If I were to do a Jessner peel on someone with darker skin, they would likely hyper-pigment, meaning they’d get dark spots. This is why I require all my darker skinned clients be on a lightening product for a good month prior to doing any strong peels like TCA’s. Any peel that actually peels the skin.  On my new client form, I always ask about ethnicity both on the maternal and paternal side.

Not everyone looks like the ethnicity they actually are. Back in the day, many. light skinned Black women would pass as white so they could work in the nightclubs. This was when Black people were segregated so they couldn’t get jobs unless they passed. My adult children are 1/8 Native American via their biological father. If you look at my son he has my blue eyes but he has dark brown hair and beautiful skin that I call either caramel or cafe au lait. If you look at my daughter she has my white skin so if another esthetician were to work on her and not ask her about ethnicity and did a strong peel on her, it could be disasterous.

By asking my clients about their ethnicity I’m able to assess their risk both for skin cancer and for hyper-pigmenting. Someone who has Irish and Scottish on their maternal side and Italian on their paternal side is both high risk for skin cancer and brown spots.

Make Sense??  Feel free to ask questions and I’m happy to answer! And give us a call at Peace of Mind to pick up a tube of our mineral only Protect SPF 30 which gives you immediate protection and if you’re someone who is high risk for brown spots and wants to do a strong peel, make an appointment for a customized facial to begin with and we’ll assess if you really need that strong of a peel and if so, I’ll get you started on a lightening product. Read my previous blog about how lighteners work!

 

 

Filed Under: Life Enhancing Tips

Let’s Talk Peptides!

March 13, 2021 by Wendei Leave a Comment

In case you missed our latest Wellness Wednesday with Wendei on Instagram @peaceofmindhealh & @peaceofmindskin, here’s a bit of information about some of Wendei’s favorite ingredients – peptides.  Because Wendei lives with multiple autoimmune diseases, not only does she use peptides in her skincare products, but she uses them as medicine as well.

Peptides are strings of amino acids attached by a peptide bond. They work by sending signals to the cells in our bodies which is why they’re used in the medical world to treat various conditions including insomnia and chronic pain and gut health. The number of peptides in the string or chain determined what signal they’re sending. For example oligo peptide means there are eight peptides in a chain, then comes the peptide bond and another 8 peptides and so on and so forth. Some peptides send signals to stimulate the fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin, while some others work to fade hyperpigmentation (Chroma-Brite and others) and others like Syn-Ake mimic snake venom and relax the facial muscles. Other injectables like Botox or Dysport will paralyze the facial muscles but when using peptides in your daily skin care routine, if you are getting fillers or Botox, you’ll find that they last much longer meaning in the long run you’ll save money. Currently peptides can be found in the following Peace of Mind Naturals products with more currently in development: Crack Cream, Flourish Mask and Glow Mask.

Please make sure to follow us on IG to learn more or send us any email with any questions you have or other topics you’d like Wendei to address.

Filed Under: Life Enhancing Tips

Will lighteners really bleach my skin?

March 1, 2021 by Wendei Leave a Comment

The short answer is “No!”  But I know you’re all wondering about the real answer so pay attention as it’s going to get a bit geeky which personally l love being a science geek.

So here goes! Pop quiz. What’s the name of the cell that produces that yucky brown pigment that you see on your skin that appears most of the time in splotches.  If you guess the melanocyte, you get a gold star! So here’s where it gets interested. During this current cultural climate of #BLM I think it’s important to note that we all bleed red, we all have the same organs unless we’ve had to have one surgically removed and we’re all at risk for the same illnesses. Here’s the ONE thing outside of cultural or religious traditions that makes use different.

They’re called dendrites. If I were sitting in my office next to you, I’d draw you a picture of a melanocyte. Picture a circle which is the cell. Now picture octopus arms coming out of that cell. Those are called dendrites. They are the vehicles that melanin travels through to make its way up to our epidermis which is the outer layers of our skin. The ONLY think that makes a caucasian person different from someone who is Indian, Native American, Hispanic, Black, etc. is the number of dendrites. Because I’m a white Jewish girl, I have fewer dendrites than someone who is one of the above ethnicities. It makes me sick to my stomach how racist too many people in the world are when the only thing that makes us different is the number of dendrites we have – that’s it!

So here’s where it’s going to get geeky so stick with me. Let’s say (gasp!), you go for a walk or hike and you forget to put on your sunscreen. I know if you’re one of my clients you’d never do that because I’ve already put the fear of G-d as well as the fear of skin cancer and ugly brown spots in you. Anyways, you go for a last minute hike and forget to reapply your sunscreen. OR, you get in the hot tub and don’t bring a cold towel with you to put over your face (yes, write that down for future reference because heat also causes hyperpigmentation), the first thing that happens is your melanocyte begins producing an enzyme called tyrosinase. This enzyme is the precursor to melanin which is the pigment that travels through those dendrites. If the cell doesn’t produce tyrosinase, then no melanin is produced, hence the term tyrosinase inhibitors. The way it works, is you apply whatever lightening product that you’re using and as long as you’re wearing sunscreen, your melanocyte won’t produce tyrosinase which means you won’t hyperpigment.

There are many different ingredients that are tyrosinase inhibitors and no, bleach isn’t one of them. Some of them off the top of my head are hydroquinone (fine to use for a few months at a time for moderate to severe pigmentation but toxic to the liver if used for too long), Kojic acid from a type of mushroom, and peptides that work by telling the cells what to do. If you have mild hyperpigmentation you can use your lightening product (all over not just treating the spots) once a day. If you’re moderate to severe, then I recommend using it morning and night, over toner and under your other serums and moisturizer or face oil. You’ll want to make sure that you’re also using either a good lactic acid serum or a retinol based product along with your lightening product so that you’re getting some sort of exfoliation on a daily basis and this will speed up the timing in which you see results. Coming in for peels once a week will also speed up the process.

Now if you have true melasma then you’re going to have to have a lot more patience and use your products twice a day religiously and avoid saunas, hot tubs and steam rooms as heat can make it worse. I had one client that had lightened beautifully and then she got a sinus infection and purchased one of those heat up masks. The poor thing turned brown all over :(.  Melasma is caused by hormones and the sun whether it be from birth control, bioidentical hormone replacement therapy or being pregnant. Hormones and the sun do not go together and if you’re on hormone therapy or are pregnant and go in the sun without protection, you’re going to be incredibly unhappy because melasma is the hardest type of pigmentation to treat. But don’t fret, it can fade but it’s going to take a lot long than a few months. We’re talking one to two years. I have a client who has been coming to me forever and she had true melasma. She came to me once a month religiously for two years and voila, her melasma went away and to this day is still gone as you’d never even believe she ever had it. In a perfect world, you’d come in once a week for a half hour lactic acid peel as you’ll get faster results or invest in our POM Signature one week peel or really invest in a TCA peel where you actually peel and you’ll get results much sooner.

If you’d like to book a consultation and get started on a lightening product and book an appointment for your first peel or a package of peels, either book online or call us at (818) 769-0302.

Happy lightening!

Wendei

Filed Under: Life Enhancing Tips Tagged With: hyperpigmentation, melasma, peptides, skin care regimen, wellness

What’s Up With Needling Your Skin???

September 26, 2016 by Wendei Leave a Comment

Want younger looking skin but don’t want the high risk, sun sensitivity, or fillers?

By Wendei Smith

We’ve got it! Microneedling is just as effective as laser but, unlike laser, it can be repeatedly indefinitely.

Skin needling is also called microneedling therapy or collagen induction therapy (CIT). It is a minimally invasive non-surgical and non-ablative procedure for skin rejuvenation that involves the use of a microneedling device to penetrate the epidermis and create a controlled skin injury without the heat from Laser treatments. Microneedling causes the release of growth

factors that promote scar-less healing and the deposition of normal woven collagen rather than scar collagen that can happen with CO2, Fraxel, Pixel and Laser treatments.

In the realm of skin rejuvenation treatments available, microneedling has been around for decades and has recently gained popularity and become the easiest, most effective must have skin rejuvenation treatment available for the stars like Gwenyth Paltrow and Jennifer Aniston.

Microneedling creates thousands of tiny superficial micro channels in the skin by using a micropen device or dermal roller. The micro wound process stimulates your body’s natural ability to heal itself to create a thicker dermis, improved blood supply, soften wrinkles and scars as well as produce new collagen and elastin.

What are the benefits of Microneedling?

  •   Better absorption of active ingredients in creams and topical serums
  •   Improves blood supply and circulation (neo-angiogenesis)
  •   Increases the production of collagen through stimulation of Fibroblasts
  •   Safe for all types of skin
  •   Natural/Holistic and effective treatment
  •   Less expensive than Laser resurfacing treatments
  •   Minimal discomfort and downtime with better results than traditional lasers: CO2,

    Fraxel, Pixel and Photo facials

    Microneedling results are both immediate and progressive, its effect on your skin is best combined with prescribed home care and supplements for a few weeks before hand. Treatment results are cumulative over a 3 to 6 month time line, every four weeks for optimal results.

    Microneedling is also much more cost effective than laser treatments with way less downtime too. Darker skin types are more afraid of laser treatments as they know the risk of heat induced pigmentation can or will occur, so needling is a much safer alternative.

    Want to get started?

Content Copyright © 2016, Peace of Mind wellness

PERMISSION TO REPRINT: You may use any items from this article in your print, blog, magazine or electronic newsletter. But in order to do so, you must include the following paragraph, including a link to www.peaceofmindwellness.com

“Information is courtesy of www.peaceofmindwellness.com , a website with skin care tips, products based on nine skin types and advice from skin care expert and licensed esthetician, Wendei  Smith.”

Filed Under: Professional Techniques

Spring Into New HEALTHY Treatments from Peace of Mind!

April 20, 2015 by Wendei Leave a Comment

Last year I invested a lot of time and money in new equipment and education and just when I thought I was all settled in with my fabulous new treatments and ready for 2015, bam! I got hit with some health issues – one of which was chronic fatigue and brain fog.

Not okay for a type A+++ personality like me. So in true Wendei form, I started researching everything I could so I could rejuvenate my body and clear my head. In my travels, I became a patient of both Peace of Mind’s resident naturopath, Dr. Jeremy Fischer, and our new POM family member, Emily Glasser, nutritionist and functional medicine specialist. While they helped me immensely with supplements and lab tests that told me exactly what was happening in my body, I began exploring other treatments that would make me feel AND look better because when I get tired, I start to look my biological age – GASP!

Now that I’m feeling A LOT better, I’m so excited to share with you what worked for me and I can’t wait for you to visit us and experience these amazing treatments yourself!

Drum roll, please…..

Oxygen Infusion

After years of being on the fence about oxygen skin care treatments, I finally tried it for myself and couldn’t believe the instant difference it made in my skin. My chronic fatigue was taking a toll on my skin and I was so dehydrated and pale from sleep deprivation. In just ONE oxygen treatment I got my glow back and those dehydration lines vanished!

As horrible as I felt, no one knew I was sick when I started getting oxygen facials. Of course I found the best machine and serums and we are now offering Oxygen Infusion Facials. You can book directly here or you can tell me or Olivia at your next appointment to “add oxygen please!” This amazing infusion is only an extra $20, so you’d be foolish not to give it a try.

And guess what? Oxygen happens to be amazing for breakouts because, as I’ve taught you, bacteria cannot live where oxygen is present so this is a no brainer add-on if you have acne or are suffering from a hormonal or stress breakout. We have two amazing serums, one for anti-aging and another specifically for acne challenged skin.

Far Infrared Sauna

infrared saunaIn my quest to bring in a new body contouring/detoxification treatment, I had the pleasure of visiting a few different spas to see what they were doing. I started out looking for a specific micro current machine that aids in inch loss, skin smoothing and cellulite reduction. What I found was an amazing treatment combining micro current with Far Infrared Sauna. Once I tried this particular treatment at a boutique Beverly Hills hotel, I was sold!

Not only did some of my pesky cellulite improve, but I had more energy than I’d had in months. Thinking it must be a fluke, I called the esthetician who worked on me and asked her if this was all in my head. She assured me it wasn’t and that the energy was probably from the Far Infrared Sauna I was laying in while she had me hooked up to the micro current machine. Just to make sure, I went back for a second treatment four days later and I was so blown away that I called the rep for the sauna after the weekend and bought it on the spot!

The micro current machine is still about a month or two away but the Far Infrared Sauna is ready for you to enjoy and is already getting rave reviews. I have been using the Far Infrared Sauna myself a few times a week and my brain fog is nearly gone and about 80% of my energy is back – it’s amazing! Plan to sweat a lot so bring deodorant and make sure to drink lots of water when you come out. Some of the benefits of Far Infrared include increased energy, detoxification, improved cardiovascular health, weight loss (you can burn up to 600 calories in a session!) and relief from chronic pain. This is a great time to meditate or listen to your favorite music so I recommend bringing ear buds with you and taking a nice nap.

Call ahead to make sure the sauna is available and Olivia or I will get you set up. The price for this amazing treatment is only a dollar a minute and we recommend starting out with 30 minute treatments and working up to 40 minutes. If you’re dealing with chronic fatigue or pain issues like I was, I recommend doing it at least three times a week.

Here’s to a Healthy Spring!

Filed Under: Healthful Tips, Life Enhancing Tips

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Recent Posts

  • Why Is Skin of Color More Sensitive Than Caucasian Skin?
  • Let’s Talk Peptides!
  • Will lighteners really bleach my skin?
  • What’s Up With Needling Your Skin???
  • Spring Into New HEALTHY Treatments from Peace of Mind!
  • I’m taking it all off! AKA everything you wanted to know about waxing

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Studio City Facials, Tanning, Waxing and more

Peace of Mind Skin & Body Care in Studio City specializes in corrective facials and body care, but don’t be fooled by our amazing results-oriented treatments – we provide an incredibly pampering spa experience with customized aromatherapy blends and yummy massage in a relaxing and welcoming environment.

We offer everything from very basic but pampering deep cleansing facials and hydrating facials to micro phototherapy, LED, micro current, & oxygen infusion facials. We also offer the best waxing and spray tanning in Studio City.We are Los Angeles’ most experienced estheticians trained in Collagen Induction Therapy aka micro or dermal needling.

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Peace of Mind Skin & Body Care
12215 Ventura Blvd. Suite 110
Studio City, CA 91604
818-769-0302
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